Deconstruction/Reconstruction

This is a conceptual project. The aim is to create a garment from other deconstructed clothes. Before starting this project I created a moodboard to inspire a concept for the final garment.


I like the earthy tones of this moodboard, and I am interested in the idea of layers within layers. My idea is to create a garment which appears to have been broken and repaired so many times that the original piece of clothing is undetermined. I will focus on clashing materials/patterns, patches and pockets. I started by selecting old items of clothes and unstitching them.

By unstitching the garments it gives me an understanding of the basic construction of various garments, this will be important to consider when creating my own item of clothing. After unstitching them I did some experimentation with reassembling them using pins on a mannequin. This provides inspiration for my final design, and shows me the versatility of each individual item.

From this experiment I like the outfits that appear more tailored, and the ones where the mannequin almost appear completely wrapped up. Creating skirts and trousers were less effective, I think I will focus more on the upper body and creating tops and jackets. My next experiment will focus on creating outfits using multiple layers and a wrapping technique on a real model.

I like the results from this experiment, there is a clear story within the photographs, the multiple layers seem to indicate that the character has almost picked up clothing as they've gone along and not taken them off, resulting in a cocoon of clothing.

Satisfied with my concept I decided I would focus on creating a jacket, because I like the clash of the scruffy missmatched patches on a tailored piece of clothing. I started designing by photocopying my garments and creating some muses.

Muses

I am happy with the way my muses came out, they have the cut of tailored clothing but the scruff and multiple layers of the the deconstructed garments. I like the tomboyish feel to these images and will keep the hair and makeup for the final shoot tomboyish. This look works well with as it enhances this unkempt appearance of the clothes.

Development

Using my muses as a guide I started designing elements of the final garment. I considered the type of stitching I would incorporate in the final design; crude and patchwork-like. The idea of intentionally sewing on pockets adds dimension to the character, they have added pockets for convenient purposes rather than aesthetic ones.

Of all my designs my favorite is the top left hand coloured picture (as shown in image directly above). I like the clashing colours, the tails reminiscent of a tailcoat, and the angular shoulders. I shall be using this design as a basis for my final garment.

Layering

Before I start making my garment i have to consider how I am going to layer contrasting materials. I created a few potential ways to layer the materials, by using small samples and pegs. This helped me establish which materials I will actually use in my final garment. For example i did not like the sequin texture so I shall not be using it in the final garment.

Final Garment

The concept of my project was to create a character for my garment. They were to be tomboyish, unkempt and they wore a garment which appeared to be lived in, resewn, remade and repatched. The recycling over the garment over and over again had to be evident. The viewer had to question why the character held on to such and old piece of garment, whether it be from necessity or an emotional attatchment of some kind. When creating the final photoshoot I wanted to choose a location that reflected the DIY and self sufficient nature of the character. I chose an allotment shed. I wanted to imply that this is where the character lived, with the bare necessities.

In this shoot I think that the background worked well because it complements the garment and sets a scene for the character. I also think that the garment was an overall success, it characterizes the model and captures the initial concepts. It is certainly tomboyish, there are multiple layers to the garment, it has a distinct shape and the materials worked well together. Had I had more time I would have like to add more to the tails of the jacket and emphasize the collar. It does appear quite costume like rather than a wearable jacket and I think this works well with my concept and themes.

The natural lighting in theses images did not work so well, it was too dark and some of the detailing on the jacket has been lost. I think the colour images work better because it brings out some of the pattern details. I would also have liked to experiment more with full body shots.

Collections

The objective of this project was to create a set piece (prop, clothing, back drop) for a photoshoot. As a starting point I used an personal object for inspiration. I used my Angel Pendant which holds significant personal value as it was made for me by my step-grandfather. I created a mind map considering potential imagery and concepts for my photoshoot.

I became interested in the notion of morality and sins. It is human nature to make mistakes and sin, but we all where a mask of how we think we should think and behave, rather than what we actually believe. A mask of social conformity.

Moodboard

Observational Sketches

Whilst sketching my pendant I noticed the different shapes within it, and how by intensely observing it from alternative angles, distorted it. By simply flipping the pendant over, I noticed how the angelic figure appeared more like a rabbit holding a spear, or a praying mantis. The idea that through closer observation of the angel pendant, I could find less angelic imagery, really interested me. 

Bizarre, fantasy monsters created from angelic pendant. The insect imagery reflects our fears, the distortion of the rabbits nose is creepy. I am happy with the images I have created from the angel pendant, and I think they work with the concept.

Isabella Blow

For inspiration on prop making, set designs, and styling I visited the Isabella Blow exhibition at Sommerset house.

Dress- Alexander McQueen A/W1996

Mr Pearl Corset-Alexander McQueen A/W1996

Gold Sculpted Headpiece-Philip Tracey A/W 1996

Coat-Black Velvet-Alexander McQueen 2006

Red Mask- Philip Tracey A/W1996

Jacket- Alexander McQueen 5/5 2002

Sculpted Hat- Philip Tracey A/W1996

Honour Fraser- Vogue (UK) December 1993

Jacket- Alexander McQueen 5/5 2005

Skirt Cream Tulip- Alexander McQueen 5/5 2005

Prep Models

Before creating the prop/costume/set we did some experimental 3D prep pieces, using a variety of mediums we had 5 minutes to create models/props relating to our object of choice and concept. Each task had restricted materials. My concept had to be clear before I could start, I needed to consider the distortions of the Angel Pendant (rabbit, warrior, mantis), and the concept of masking sin.

Task 1: Multicolour tissue paper and wire materials.

I sculpted a small figure out of wire, embellished with tissue paper. I had to use masking tape because it could not stand up. The  tissue paper was supposed to be the robe that the figure shall wear in my final piece.

Task 2: Just wire

I created this 3D sketch out of a wire of my desired final character for my piece. The warrior imagery reflecting death/power/fearful with the spear. 

Task 3: Yellow themed materials

Materials used: yellow balloon, false flowers, yellow card and tape. With this task I decided to create the top of the spear that my angel pendant was holding. 

Task 4: Monochrome theme

Materials: Balloon, masking tape, reflective paper, white ribbon.

The balloon and tape represents the head of the figure and the white ribbon represents the ruff that my sketch was wearing.

Task 4: Red colour theme

Materials: Pink balloon, red card, red tape, white card.

I created a miniature version of my final piece. The angelic wings and dead eyes were intentionally juxtaposed to represent the concept of morality and sin being part of humanity.

Experimental Sketches

Using pen and watercolour, I sketched some designs of the potential final outcome for the shoot. One prop that is essential for the final photoshoot is the mask, influenced by the style of Venetian masks, it has to be  delicate and intricate as it will capture the angelic aspect of the final shoot. The ears will also be made to represent the rabbit ears in my chosen character. The figure will be robed in cream/white cloth to maintain the angelic imagery. The hands will be gloved in black to expose the darkness underneath the 'masks'. One of my ideas involved using no human models but rather draping the cloth limply from a coat hanger, and creating a head out of a balloon and masking tape (as seen in my prep experiments). Whilst I like the idea of having the character hanging limply and almost hollow, I feel better images can be captured with using a model as pose will be more versatile.

No model sketch:

Model sketch:

Materials needed: Ears, Mask, black gloves, white/cream robe

Venetian Masks

Before creating the mask for my piece I did a bit of research into Venetian masks for inspiration.

Some examples I looked at:

Mask Designs

Taking inspiration from Venetian masks I designed a few potential masks for my piece. They had to incorporate the long nose, had to be theatrical yet delicate and not intimidating.I decided to opt for the bottom left mask as it was least threatening and I liked the feather arrangement in the centre.

Mask Detailing Designs

When detailing the mask I took inspiration from Alexander McQueen's lace/bead patterns that I observed at the Isabella blow exhibition. I considered how I would incorporate some of the lace work to fit my design, I would be using wire and bead materials rather than fabric, so his designs would only be influential on the final piece.

Final sketch of desired mask incorporating influences from Alexander McQueen and Venetian masks.

Ear Designs

When designing the ears I considered the shape, size and pattern. I wanted to use the same material that I used for the mask and attach the ears to a headband. I decided to opt for the the bent ear, because i wanted to use asymmetry to reflects the concept of human imperfection. In terms of pattern design I have chosen to create the ear on the far right, whilst they have to be delicate I want the focal point of the shoot to be the mask. This ear is simple, yet delicate.

Materials

-Fine Wire

-Thick wire

-Masking tape

-Pliers

-Thread

-White false flowers

-Elastic bands

-Beads (various sizes)

Development

I started by creating the wings using a medium thick wire.

Then using fine wire to sew in some beads.

The wire outline of the outer part of the wings. Simplified slightly from original design because of material restrictions.

Threaded fine wire for detailing. In the 'heads' of each wing contains several small beads threaded by fine wire.

 

The eye of the mask. Repeated for other side.

Outline of mask was thickened by wrapping several pieces of wire around each other. It had to be robust to support long nose. The eye piece was attached to this thick wire coil.

Coiling was added to the centre of the nose piece. Embellished with the fake white flowers.

However I found the floral embellishments to be a little clumsy and creating a beaded lace was much more delicate.

Above the eye I created a beaded eyebrow, using faux pearls in a variety of sizes. Fine wire threaded beads embellished the rest of the face of the mask.

Ears

Using a thick wire I created the outline of the ear and the inner ear section.

I then coiled wire around the outline.

 Final ears: One bent over for asymmetry.

Final Piece

My final mask turned out well, it is intricate, delicate and angelic. With the addition of the white feathering enhances the angelic feel. The choice of wire as a medium was good because it creates a delicate finish to the piece. The fine wire threading worked particularly well because it added another dimension of intricacy to the design. The feathers and beads add drama and theatrical element to it. If I had more time I would create bigger wings and more beads hanging from the mask, perhaps using finer beads.

Final Images

I think that the final pieces worked well because it reflects my concept. The pale colourings create and angelic feel to the photographs. However the dark gloves, vampy makeup, and flash of black and white striped top (prison inmate imagery) darken the images. I think that the feathers are a little intrusive so will have to be trimmed down, to match the delicacy of the mask. I think these images could be improved if I brought more attention onto the mask, this could be achieved by taking head shots and brightening the image.