Deconstruction/Reconstruction

This is a conceptual project. The aim is to create a garment from other deconstructed clothes. Before starting this project I created a moodboard to inspire a concept for the final garment.


I like the earthy tones of this moodboard, and I am interested in the idea of layers within layers. My idea is to create a garment which appears to have been broken and repaired so many times that the original piece of clothing is undetermined. I will focus on clashing materials/patterns, patches and pockets. I started by selecting old items of clothes and unstitching them.

By unstitching the garments it gives me an understanding of the basic construction of various garments, this will be important to consider when creating my own item of clothing. After unstitching them I did some experimentation with reassembling them using pins on a mannequin. This provides inspiration for my final design, and shows me the versatility of each individual item.

From this experiment I like the outfits that appear more tailored, and the ones where the mannequin almost appear completely wrapped up. Creating skirts and trousers were less effective, I think I will focus more on the upper body and creating tops and jackets. My next experiment will focus on creating outfits using multiple layers and a wrapping technique on a real model.

I like the results from this experiment, there is a clear story within the photographs, the multiple layers seem to indicate that the character has almost picked up clothing as they've gone along and not taken them off, resulting in a cocoon of clothing.

Satisfied with my concept I decided I would focus on creating a jacket, because I like the clash of the scruffy missmatched patches on a tailored piece of clothing. I started designing by photocopying my garments and creating some muses.

Muses

I am happy with the way my muses came out, they have the cut of tailored clothing but the scruff and multiple layers of the the deconstructed garments. I like the tomboyish feel to these images and will keep the hair and makeup for the final shoot tomboyish. This look works well with as it enhances this unkempt appearance of the clothes.

Development

Using my muses as a guide I started designing elements of the final garment. I considered the type of stitching I would incorporate in the final design; crude and patchwork-like. The idea of intentionally sewing on pockets adds dimension to the character, they have added pockets for convenient purposes rather than aesthetic ones.

Of all my designs my favorite is the top left hand coloured picture (as shown in image directly above). I like the clashing colours, the tails reminiscent of a tailcoat, and the angular shoulders. I shall be using this design as a basis for my final garment.

Layering

Before I start making my garment i have to consider how I am going to layer contrasting materials. I created a few potential ways to layer the materials, by using small samples and pegs. This helped me establish which materials I will actually use in my final garment. For example i did not like the sequin texture so I shall not be using it in the final garment.

Final Garment

The concept of my project was to create a character for my garment. They were to be tomboyish, unkempt and they wore a garment which appeared to be lived in, resewn, remade and repatched. The recycling over the garment over and over again had to be evident. The viewer had to question why the character held on to such and old piece of garment, whether it be from necessity or an emotional attatchment of some kind. When creating the final photoshoot I wanted to choose a location that reflected the DIY and self sufficient nature of the character. I chose an allotment shed. I wanted to imply that this is where the character lived, with the bare necessities.

In this shoot I think that the background worked well because it complements the garment and sets a scene for the character. I also think that the garment was an overall success, it characterizes the model and captures the initial concepts. It is certainly tomboyish, there are multiple layers to the garment, it has a distinct shape and the materials worked well together. Had I had more time I would have like to add more to the tails of the jacket and emphasize the collar. It does appear quite costume like rather than a wearable jacket and I think this works well with my concept and themes.

The natural lighting in theses images did not work so well, it was too dark and some of the detailing on the jacket has been lost. I think the colour images work better because it brings out some of the pattern details. I would also have liked to experiment more with full body shots.